True Thai (Closed)
4309 Fred Wilson Ave.
El Paso, TX

Date of Review: Nov. 2007

True Thai Restaurant–El Paso, TX

History:  For the several years True Thai existed it had several cooks, changes in staff, and changes in some of the food served.  I said in the review that the overall rating of the restaurant did not change over time, but the list of “best dishes” was different with each cook.

The original True Thai was my favorite, though, because of the special dishes they could make.  One of these, the Isan style phad thai, is really the reason I want to include this review on my blog.  Unfortunately I never got a photo of this dish, but it is something I will seek out whenever I am able to visit an Isan style Thai restaurant in the future.

The rating of this restaurant did not reflect the “special food” I was able to get (which included the Isan style phad thai).  In subsequent years I have had many experiences of being able to get specially prepared items at various restaurants, so this makes good for good discussions on blogs but does not normally cause me to raise the ratings of these restaurants (unless other customers can also order this food and be able to get it on demand).

One note about True Thai is that I was always intrigued by the sign (which was written in Thai).  I have since learned that it says Thai Teh (real or genuine Thai), which I know was the case at least to a certain extent.

This seems to be the most authentic Thai restaurant in El Paso (thus the name “True Thai,” I suppose). True Thai is small and sometimes requires a wait to get a table, but it is always friendly and courteous.

It has taken some experimentation to find some of the more interesting plates. This has been made more complicated by the fact that there used to be a different cook, and now it seems I have to try everything over again. I do not think the restaurant is any better or worse than it used to be, but I have definitely developed a different list of “favorites.”

Phad thai (from the regular menu)

At first my favorite was the Phad Thai, something I think the restaurant was encouraging novices in Thai food to order (as I was when I first starting going to True Thai). Although the lime, sugar, peanuts, and Thai chiles served as a condiment on the table made it enjoyable, I found the noodles to be rather sticky and gooey (how do you like my technical descriptions of Thai food?). I think this is the tamarind version of phad thai that can be contrasted to the one at Singapore Cafe that has a more brown or white color and is made without tamarind sauce. Both seem to follow authentic Thai recipes, and it is probably a matter of taste as to which one is better. When Becky at Singapore Cafe does the phad thai just right I think her version is much better. I have never found the one at True Thai to be bad, though.

I say the phad thai used to be my favorite dish because I was spoiled when the former chef made a northern Thailand style Isan Phad Thai upon special request. I was talking to her one day asking if she could make anything that was not on the menu, and this was her suggestion. Northern style phad thai is made with a tomato sauce (I assume instead of the tamarind) and is more spicy than the southern style dish. This became my regular request at the restaurant, but I had to go at a time when the restaurant was not very busy and the ingredients for the dish were available (which I could never predict). This was one of the best Thai dishes I have tried, but it never caught on so that it would be added to the menu. The current chef either cannot or does not wish to prepare northern Thailand dishes, so I have not had the Isan phad thai in quite a while.

The main lesson I have found from going to a number of Thai restaurants is that almost all Thai food is good, but only a few restaurants bring it to the level of greatness that I think represents Thailand’s best food. The northern style phad thai I used to get at True Thai was one of those dishes I thought rose to the level of greatness. Most of the things on True Thai’s menu are not what I would consider special when compared to some of the best Thai restaurants in other cities. Still, there are quite a few things I enjoy and can recommend.

The curry dishes have consistently been the best in El Paso. They started out being thin and runny, being just slightly better than at the other restaurants. I have been pretty impressed, though, by the way the current chef has made the curry thicker with a more vibrant flavor. It is now coming close to some of the better curries I have ever had.

Phad prik king

Phad Prik King is one of the better curry dishes, consisting of a red curry served with green beans. I have tried several meats with it, with shrimp being the best. The chicken did not have a flavor that was quite as enticing as it should be. Probably the versions I like best are with vegetables or tofu. Until 2007 the phad prik king has always been like I have found it in other restaurants–red curry made without coconut milk. For some reason the chef has now begun using red curry with coconut milk, which I do not believe is the traditional way this dish is made. However, I do not know whether to complain that the curry is non-traditional or be glad because it is so good. I have certainly not exhausted all the Asian restaurants in Texas, but the only ones I have experienced that have better curry (with the coconut milk) are the Lao restaurants in Amarillo. I suspect, though, that if the chef would make it without coconut milk, as it was before, it would be just as good if not better.

Phad king

The Phad King (ginger) has a delicious sauce, but the vegetables have been disappointing. The vegetables usually consist of a lot of bell peppers and other crunchy things that I do not like as much as the more traditional green vegetables. More than anything, I just have not found the dish to be filling enough when I order the vegetable version.

Tom yum

One of the best items has been Tom Yum. It consisted of a good amount of vegetables in a soup broth with curry paste and a generous amount of lime (a choice of meat was also available). The lemongrass and galanga provide just about everything that makes this dish good (there is even a jar of Thai peppers and fish sauce on the table that can be added).

Other types of soup with seafood have been very good, but I do not remember what they were called on the menu.

So far I have found that just about everything except the phad thai is better with a side order of rice. It costs extra, though.

The Thai Tea is one of the best I have found at any Thai restaurant, and has never been disappointing on the numerous times I have ordered it.

One problem I have found at True Thai has been the lack of variety on the menu and the fact that they do not serve a lot of items I find at just about every other Thai restaurant I have visited. Some of the items that are served occasionally lack some of the ingredients that are normally included in the dish. (I think both of these shortcomings are symptoms of El Paso’s isolation from a large Asian population and a lack of Asian super markets). I believe the restaurant is doing the best it can, and at least is delivering more authentic Thai food than can be found in other establishments around the borderland.

Probably my biggest gripe with True Thai is that I do not think either the chicken or tofu are as good as they should be. I have tried some beef dishes that were not very exciting. Probably the only items I would recommend here are ones made with seafood or vegetables, and even the vegetables have left me disappointed on occasion. The curries and sauces here are pretty good–it is just the items that go with the sauces that are disappointing.

The restaurant is small with about eight tables, and I don’t care much for the plastic patio chairs that are used. While the food is not expensive, an order of spring rolls or soup will push the price up so that it becomes one of the higher priced Asian restaurants in the city. Rice is extra and Thai tea is more expensive than the regular tea.

There are several other dishes I have tried and found mediocre (three stars). There are many more that I have not tried, and may be quite good. I do know that the curry dishes are pretty good and seem to have improved from when the restaurant first opened. It is well worthwhile giving True Thai a try.

RATING: 19

Cuisine: Thai
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Assessible: Yes
Most Recent Visit
Nov. 10, 2007

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Tom Yum, Phad Prik King, Thai Iced Tea

Special Ratings

	Tom Yum
	Phad Prik King
	Phad King
	Phad Thai
	Thai Iced Tea

Casa Jurado (Closed)
226 Cincinnati Ave.
El Paso, TXDate of Review: Feb. 2007 (updated Mar. 2016)

Casa Jurado in Kern Place–El Paso, TX

History:  For many years Casa Jurado was one of El Paso’s most popular restaurants, serving the classic “El Paso style” Mexican food.  This was characterized by red and green chile enchiladas, a large variety of items (some of which seemed to be unique to the El Paso area), and the fact that it contained elements of New Mexican cuisine as well as authentic dishes from Mexico.

In the meantime, a second location opened on Doniphan Drive in El Paso’s Upper Valley, known as Casa Jurado West.  This was operated by another Jurado family member, and had food which was much the same as at the original location.

Henry Jurado, the long time owner and manager of the original Casa Jurado, sold the restaurant in 2004.  The new owners continued the same menu as before, but long time customers seemed to notice subtle changes to the food and began to come less frequently than before (they kept the same cooks and waiters that had been at the old Casa Jurado, but there was enough variability in the food that I wasn’t always sure it was still the “same old” Casa Jurado).  The restaurant closed in 2010.  I think changes in the food were not the only reason for this, or even the main reason.  At the time the “Cincinnati District” was going through drastic changes, becoming more of a night club scene than the traditional shopping and restaurant district that had been there before.  It became almost impossible to find a parking spot even if you wanted to go to Casa Jurado, and the restaurant just did not fit the neighborhood very well any more.

Casa Jurado West is still operating with the traditional Jurado family recipes.  I never liked it quite as much as the original restaurant, but it is nevertheless one of the top “El Paso style” restaurants in the city.

The following review was written after the ownership of the original restaurant changed, and is a description of the “post-Henry” restaurant with allusions to the original.

Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa Jurado itself is decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati Avenue.

Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in 2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained.

For a while the food did not seem to be the same as when the Jurado family still had the restaurant. However, through keeping the same cooks and waiters the restaurant has maintained a continuity so that as of 2007 it seems to be the same “Casa J” as before.

Chips and salsa at Casa Jurado

In theory, the food should be even better now than before. The Salsa is the only item that has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor. I think it is still pretty heavy on the comino but I thought it was good. If you wish to take a taste test you can try the one at Casa Jurado West which still serves the original salsa.

A conscious effort has been made by the owner of the Casa Jurado in Kern Place to keep things fresh by making the food daily and not keeping anything overnight. One time I went they had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that day, and the sauce is only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next morning. This also means that if you go in the evening not everything on the menu might be available.

Enchiladas Norteñas

Enchiladas Norteñas was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and currently at the Doniphan (Casa Jurado West) location. This is characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in the city. Based on my recent experiences at the restaurant I suspect they are now back to the original style, but without ordering this specific dish I cannot make a rating of it. It does seem, though, that the restaurant tried to change at first, then went back to the original way of doing things that made Casa Jurado a success in the first place.

Chicken flautas

My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a “perfect” order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are normally found. The only component of the flautas that I thought was less than perfect was the chicken that had a flavor I frequently encounter in Mexican food, but that I nevertheless do not like very much (kind of a dry taste). Still it was good, and next time I will probably get beef flautas. Even if you order chicken, I still highly recommend this dish.

At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same.

Chicken Mole used to be very good. It is a matter of taste on this dish, but currently I like the version at Carnitas Queretaro the best.

Salpicón has always been the restaurant’s specialty–a type of beef salad that is served cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the lab salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants.

One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me (and who still works at the restaurant) suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but I think it would be so worth it.

Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes.

Refried Beans are better than before. It could be that they have now started using vegetable oil, but I really do not know the reason they seem to be so good.

One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso.

The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer. I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a comlimentary serving of something called “queso,” but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a key ingredient.

I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are some of the best in the city. The ones at the “old” restaurant were good, but I do not remember them being this good.

The Flan over the years has been one of the best I’ve eaten.

I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. If some of my previous disappointments have now been rectified, the restaurant can now be considered better than before. I think it is at least close to the type of food Henry brought us for a number of years.

*** Also see Three Versions of Enchiladas–New Mexico, El Paso, and Mexico Style

RATING: 25 (Pre-2004)

Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Full Bar

Chile Index:

Most Recent Visit
Feb. 27, 2007

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos, Chicken Mole, Flautas, Enchiladas Norteñas (at the original restaurant)

Special Ratings

	Enchiladas Norteñas (this is the pre-2004 rating)
	Chiles Rellenos
	Chicken Mole
	Flautas
	Refried Beans
	Salsa