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La Paloma (Closed) 9225 Dyer St. El Paso, TX Date of Review Apr. 2008 Update Mar. 2016: La Paloma was one of my favorite restaurants in El Paso, but when I moved away from the neighborhood I did not make … Continue reading
Hacienda Mexicana
Date of Review: Mar. 2010
History: Hacienda Mexicana opened in the building that used to be Griggs Restaurant, a long time El Paso institution. Really nothing could replace Griggs, but Hacienda Mexicana served very high quality food (that unfortunately, few customers seemed to discover before the restaurant closed).
The photos in this article show the classic El Paso style Mexican food, and I think the rich colors of the food give a good indication of the rich flavors they contained.
In addition, though, the photo of the front of the restaurant is the best picture I have of the way the original Griggs Restaurant looked from the outside.
The old Griggs Restaurant on Doniphan Drive was such a special restaurant that I think it is only appropriate that another high quality Mexican restaurant take its place, and this is what has now happened with the opening of Hacienda Mexicana in 2010. The building resembles a hacienda, with several large dining rooms, outdoor gardens, and a peaceful setting away from other buildings. It is not located in the country as it was when Griggs opened, but it still seems that way.
Although I loved the food at Griggs, Hacienda Mexicana has made a change from Griggs’ menu and now serves a large variety of El Paso style Mexican food. I was impressed with the number of items on the menu that included such things as chicken mole (and other dishes that Griggs did not serve). I should point out that the former chef at Griggs has opened Peppe’s in Canutillo (6761 Doniphan Dr.) where the former Griggs recipes are now served. Griggs (and now Peppe’s) is New Mexico style food, while Hacienda Mexicana follows the tradition of high quality flavorful El Paso style food that I regularly experienced in the 1980’s but now I find in fewer and fewer restaurants.
Chips and salsa
Although the chips and salsa are not the most important part of most meals, they can detract from it if they are not good. The Chips here, though, were the first sign that it was a good restaurant. These were thick and well toasted, as they should be.
The Red Salsa was thick with a strong chile flavor, made in a typical Mexican style. Of the two salsas this was my favorite.
The Green Salsa was more spicy, but more runny and hard to put on the chips. The fact that they served more than one salsa was a definite plus for the restaurant, allowing a variety of flavors.
Combo plate with rice, chicken taco, flautas, chile relleno, red enchilada, beans, and salad
When I asked for suggestions about what to order, the waiter suggested a combination plate. This reassured me because on my first visit to a Mexican restaurant I like to try as many items as possible. However, this was still not an easy choice because they serve about six different combo plates, and each can be modified through substitutions. Thus the one I got was more or less my choice for the items I would like to try.
The Chile Relleno turned out to be much like the one Griggs used to serve, with an excellent batter and no sauce on top. It was stuffed with Muenster cheese, and had a little cheese on top, but to me was the utlimate chile relleno in El Paso for its simplicity and goodness. I want to start a list of “best individual items” at restaurants, and I know of no chile relleno in El Paso that could top the one at Hacienda Mexicana (in fact, it rivals the one at Chope’s in New Mexico).
I probably could never pick the best Red Enchilada in El Paso, but the one at Hacienda Mexicana was close. This was made the classic El Paso style, with a flavorful red chile that was not too spicy. I do not like a lot of additives such as cumin, and this was one where the chile flavor was left to stand on its own with only a little help from additional ingredients (in other words, just right).
The Flautas were served in the style of the “Mexican flag” with red chile, white sour cream, and a green guacamole sauce for color (the guacamole was a thin, pureed sauce). Although I thought the sauce was good, the flautas themselves were somewhat thin and dry (but not unusual for El Paso).
The Chicken Taco had the same meat as the flautas, which I thought was rather unflavorful. I ordered the taco with a soft shell (normally it comes fried), but it seemed that the restaurant was really not expert at making flavorful soft tacos as some of the more authentic Mexican restaurants are. Probably when it comes to El Paso style Mexican food the crispy tacos are best (and probably beef should be ordered instead of chicken).
The Rice was very flavorful and not dry. It tasted fresh, and not as if it had been sitting around for a while.
The Beans pointed out the main problem I had with some of the food–they had a definite salty flavor. In fact, this one thing pointed out the main difference to me between Hacinda Mexicana being a very good El Paso style Mexican restaurant (which it is) and possibly being one of the best (such as Casa Jurado). I thought the chile relleno and possibly the red enchilada here were better than at Casa Jurado, and some of the other food could be equally good if they cut down on the amount of salt used.
Hacienda Mexicana serves home made Agua Fresca drinks, including horchata and canteloupe (melón), but they said the lemonade comes from a mix.
Overall it was a very good expeience. The price was very reasonable, and the service was good. The restaurant closes at 9 p.m., so I did not have to feel rushed in trying to get there early as I do at many restaurants. This was truly a worthy replacement for Griggs, especially since I feel they are serving the same chiles rellenos that Griggs used to have.
RATING: 23
Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Accessible: Yes
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Applied for License
| Chile Index: |  |
Most Recent Visit
Mar. 30, 2010
Number of Visits: 1
Best Items
Chiles Rellenos, Red Enchiladas
Special Ratings
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Red Enchiladas |
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Chiles Rellenos |
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Chicken Taco |
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Flautas |
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Rice |
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Beans |
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Flour Tortillas |
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Chips |
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Salsa |
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Melón |
Adobe Grill
Date of Review: Nov. 2008
Note: Adobe Grill served excellent authentic food from the Oaxaca and Puebla regions of Mexico, and I think it serves as a good benchmark for any other restaurants that claim to be authentic. I did not give the restaurant a rating consistent with this food because I had trouble getting this food. There were two versions of many items, and depending on who took my order, it either was or was not communicated to the kitchen that I wanted the “authentic” version (I was actually using the names printed on the menu rather than my own somewhat facetious terms). They would not correct the mistake, and I thought it best to give a rating based on the food I actually got rather than on what I knew they could make but was not always served to me.
When Adobe Grill opened it was not certain that anything other than Tex-Mex would be popular in Oklahoma City, but the authentic food from the interior of Mexico has turned out to be quite a hit with locals. There are a few standard Tex-Mex items added to the menu to appeal to a wider audience such as taco salad, tortilla chips and queso dip. Overall, though, the menu consists of items that would be found in Mexico City or other typical Mexican cities.
Leticia, the owner, has made every effort to provide high quality items as they would be found in Mexico, and she has been quick to point out that the recipes are not hers, but are from her abuelita who comes in every morning to prepare the sauces that will be served that day. I honestly think the level of care taken to provide quality food here is something that will be found in very few Mexican restaurants.
Not all of the food is as spicy as I have indicated on the “chile scale.” Some of the salsas, though, have quite a kick and are comparable to the ones that would be found south of the border. I think one secret to Adobe Grill’s popularity is that it is spicy for those who want it that way, but much of the food has a more moderate heat level that is flavorful without being “dumbed down.”
Queso and several types of salsa are served
All the salsas are home made, and of course this is made obvious by the fact that no one else serves the type of salsas that are given to customers here. There is no need to ask for a “spicy” salsa as I do at many restaurants, since several of the ones served are already quite hot. I did not really have a favorite–I enjoyed them all.
Many of the dishes here are typical of the food found in Oaxaca, but I think the emphasis is on the cooking style found throughout the entire southern region of Mexico rather than a single state.
I found the poblano sauce to be the best one served. The name signifies that it is from the state of Puebla, and unlike some other Mexican restaurants that use Mexican place names in their dishes, the recipes at Adobe Grill most likely really originate in the place indicated.
Mole is another sauce that has been consistently good, and while I am impressed by its apparent authenticity, the flavor is not really better than mole from northern Mexico, it is just something different to try that is enjoyable. In any case I do not know of any other restaurant in Oklahoma City that serves mole from the southern part of Mexico, so coming to Adobe Grill will allow diners to judge for themselves whether they prefer this to other styles of mole.
Chipotle is another sauce served at Adobe Grill that is not likely to be found anywhere else. The restaurant provides a free “sampling” plate containing the various sauces so you can decide which one(s) you would like before you order (but I have found that they do not always advise customers that it is available).
“Especial de Corrina” with black beans, tamal, poblano pepper, and taco on a separate plate
Several combination dinners are available that offer a good way to sample the food that is available. The “Especial de Corrina” has the greatest variety of items, and comes with two side dishes. The Chile Relleno (poblano pepper) covers about half the plate by itself, and would make a meal by itself. Since I had help eating this dinner, though, I was able to finish everything that was served, including several items served on separate plates.
The Black Beans on the left of the plate looked enticing, but did not match the ones served at Cafe do Brasil, which are still my favorites. Roasted corn also came with the dinner, and were served on a separate plate.
A Tex-Mex style Tamal was quite good, and in fact was as good as many of the tamales I have eaten in Austin and San Antonio (in the heart of Tex-Mex country). This had a thick and flavorful masa that I thought probably came from a family recipe, and was as carefully prepared as any of the dishes from southern Mexico.
One of the tacos served at Adobe Grill
I am not sure which version of Tacos was served with the “Especial de Corrina” (shown in the picture above), but this one came with yellow cheese, a crispy shell, and fajita meat. Other tacos are available with soft tortillas and other choices of meat and fillings.
My favorite taco is Tacos de Gilberto, with tortillas dipped in a special sauce, equally good meat, and a garnish of onions, cilantro, lime juice, and sliced avocados. The white cheese sprinkled on top added to the flavor, and I thought this dish alone made it worth going to Adobe Grill. While the other tacos served at Adobe Grill are a step above the ones available at many other restaurants, I thought the tacos de Gilberto were clearly a standout.
Tamal azteca wrapped in a banana leaf is the style from southern Mexico
Tamales Aztecas are one of the more authentic dishes served, but I have had mixed results with them. Wrapped in banana leaves and filled with Carne Adobada, I thought the meat was dry and not very flavorful. The masa was good, but I did not like it as much as the Tex-Mex tamales. I think there are so many ways of preparing tamales that there are bound to be some that some people like better than others. I have found all of the ones at Adobe Grill to be as close to the “real thing” (either Mexican or Tex-Mex) as can be found in Oklahoma City.
One of the best features of Adobe Grill has been the service and the home style atmosphere (including hand crafted furniture and decorations). When I made a visit one year on September 16 (one of the most important Mexican national holidays), we were treated to a feast of items that included the ones we ordered and ones that were thrown in free by the owners to help us celebrate the occasion. The Buñuelos given us by the owner made one of the best desserts I’ve had in a long time, and was so much more satisfying than the typical sopaipillas served in OKC restaurants that I would have no hesitation paying extra for them in the future. I know the owners try hard to give everyone a great experience so they will tell their friends.
The actual experiences I have had at Adobe Grill have been mixed, in spite of the owners’ best efforts. For instance, the “Especial de Corrina” pictured above came with the generic version of several of the items even though I asked for the “southern Mexico” versions. Adobe Grill has two or more versions of tacos, enchiladas, tamales, and other dishes, and one of its best features is being able to try the different styles of food that are available. I discovered firsthand, though, that customer’s requests are not always communicated to the kitchen. Everything at Adobe Grill is good, but if you want it prepared a certain way it might be best to talk directly to the owner or manager.
Even though I did not get the “southern Mexico” version of some of the food, I thought a lot of it was typical of central or northern Mexico. The white cheese, sauces, and chiles used were all high quality ingredients that the Mexican people enjoy without worrying about the region of their origins.
It is well worth seeking out the type of Mexican food served here that is so rarely found in the United States. Even the Tex-Mex versions of the dishes are quite notable, and in some cases have made it worth my trip to Adobe Grill. The interior and southern Mexico style food, though, are always interesting and add variety to Oklahoma City’s Mexican food dining scene.
RATING: 23
Cuisine: Mexican
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily except Sat. lunch and Sun. dinner
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No smoking
Alcohol: Beer, Sangria
| Chile Index: | |
Most Recent Visit: Nov. 28, 2008
Number of Visits: 4
Best Items: Tacos de Gilberto, Enchiladas with poblano sauce, Buñuelos
Special Ratings
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Cheese Enchilada Poblano sauce |
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Cheese Enchilada Chipotle sauce |
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Cheese Enchilada with Mole |
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Cheese Enchilada Plain |
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Chile Relleno |
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Tacos de Gilberto |
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Tamales Azteca |
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Rice |
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Whole Beans |
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Chips |
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Salsa several varieties |
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Flour Tortillas |
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Buñuelos |
Date of Review: Nov. 2007
True Thai Restaurant–El Paso, TX
History: For the several years True Thai existed it had several cooks, changes in staff, and changes in some of the food served. I said in the review that the overall rating of the restaurant did not change over time, but the list of “best dishes” was different with each cook.
The original True Thai was my favorite, though, because of the special dishes they could make. One of these, the Isan style phad thai, is really the reason I want to include this review on my blog. Unfortunately I never got a photo of this dish, but it is something I will seek out whenever I am able to visit an Isan style Thai restaurant in the future.
The rating of this restaurant did not reflect the “special food” I was able to get (which included the Isan style phad thai). In subsequent years I have had many experiences of being able to get specially prepared items at various restaurants, so this makes good for good discussions on blogs but does not normally cause me to raise the ratings of these restaurants (unless other customers can also order this food and be able to get it on demand).
One note about True Thai is that I was always intrigued by the sign (which was written in Thai). I have since learned that it says Thai Teh (real or genuine Thai), which I know was the case at least to a certain extent.
This seems to be the most authentic Thai restaurant in El Paso (thus the name “True Thai,” I suppose). True Thai is small and sometimes requires a wait to get a table, but it is always friendly and courteous.
It has taken some experimentation to find some of the more interesting plates. This has been made more complicated by the fact that there used to be a different cook, and now it seems I have to try everything over again. I do not think the restaurant is any better or worse than it used to be, but I have definitely developed a different list of “favorites.”
Phad thai (from the regular menu)
At first my favorite was the Phad Thai, something I think the restaurant was encouraging novices in Thai food to order (as I was when I first starting going to True Thai). Although the lime, sugar, peanuts, and Thai chiles served as a condiment on the table made it enjoyable, I found the noodles to be rather sticky and gooey (how do you like my technical descriptions of Thai food?). I think this is the tamarind version of phad thai that can be contrasted to the one at Singapore Cafe that has a more brown or white color and is made without tamarind sauce. Both seem to follow authentic Thai recipes, and it is probably a matter of taste as to which one is better. When Becky at Singapore Cafe does the phad thai just right I think her version is much better. I have never found the one at True Thai to be bad, though.
I say the phad thai used to be my favorite dish because I was spoiled when the former chef made a northern Thailand style Isan Phad Thai upon special request. I was talking to her one day asking if she could make anything that was not on the menu, and this was her suggestion. Northern style phad thai is made with a tomato sauce (I assume instead of the tamarind) and is more spicy than the southern style dish. This became my regular request at the restaurant, but I had to go at a time when the restaurant was not very busy and the ingredients for the dish were available (which I could never predict). This was one of the best Thai dishes I have tried, but it never caught on so that it would be added to the menu. The current chef either cannot or does not wish to prepare northern Thailand dishes, so I have not had the Isan phad thai in quite a while.
The main lesson I have found from going to a number of Thai restaurants is that almost all Thai food is good, but only a few restaurants bring it to the level of greatness that I think represents Thailand’s best food. The northern style phad thai I used to get at True Thai was one of those dishes I thought rose to the level of greatness. Most of the things on True Thai’s menu are not what I would consider special when compared to some of the best Thai restaurants in other cities. Still, there are quite a few things I enjoy and can recommend.
The curry dishes have consistently been the best in El Paso. They started out being thin and runny, being just slightly better than at the other restaurants. I have been pretty impressed, though, by the way the current chef has made the curry thicker with a more vibrant flavor. It is now coming close to some of the better curries I have ever had.
Phad prik king
Phad Prik King is one of the better curry dishes, consisting of a red curry served with green beans. I have tried several meats with it, with shrimp being the best. The chicken did not have a flavor that was quite as enticing as it should be. Probably the versions I like best are with vegetables or tofu. Until 2007 the phad prik king has always been like I have found it in other restaurants–red curry made without coconut milk. For some reason the chef has now begun using red curry with coconut milk, which I do not believe is the traditional way this dish is made. However, I do not know whether to complain that the curry is non-traditional or be glad because it is so good. I have certainly not exhausted all the Asian restaurants in Texas, but the only ones I have experienced that have better curry (with the coconut milk) are the Lao restaurants in Amarillo. I suspect, though, that if the chef would make it without coconut milk, as it was before, it would be just as good if not better.
Phad king
The Phad King (ginger) has a delicious sauce, but the vegetables have been disappointing. The vegetables usually consist of a lot of bell peppers and other crunchy things that I do not like as much as the more traditional green vegetables. More than anything, I just have not found the dish to be filling enough when I order the vegetable version.
Tom yum
One of the best items has been Tom Yum. It consisted of a good amount of vegetables in a soup broth with curry paste and a generous amount of lime (a choice of meat was also available). The lemongrass and galanga provide just about everything that makes this dish good (there is even a jar of Thai peppers and fish sauce on the table that can be added).
Other types of soup with seafood have been very good, but I do not remember what they were called on the menu.
So far I have found that just about everything except the phad thai is better with a side order of rice. It costs extra, though.
The Thai Tea is one of the best I have found at any Thai restaurant, and has never been disappointing on the numerous times I have ordered it.
One problem I have found at True Thai has been the lack of variety on the menu and the fact that they do not serve a lot of items I find at just about every other Thai restaurant I have visited. Some of the items that are served occasionally lack some of the ingredients that are normally included in the dish. (I think both of these shortcomings are symptoms of El Paso’s isolation from a large Asian population and a lack of Asian super markets). I believe the restaurant is doing the best it can, and at least is delivering more authentic Thai food than can be found in other establishments around the borderland.
Probably my biggest gripe with True Thai is that I do not think either the chicken or tofu are as good as they should be. I have tried some beef dishes that were not very exciting. Probably the only items I would recommend here are ones made with seafood or vegetables, and even the vegetables have left me disappointed on occasion. The curries and sauces here are pretty good–it is just the items that go with the sauces that are disappointing.
The restaurant is small with about eight tables, and I don’t care much for the plastic patio chairs that are used. While the food is not expensive, an order of spring rolls or soup will push the price up so that it becomes one of the higher priced Asian restaurants in the city. Rice is extra and Thai tea is more expensive than the regular tea.
There are several other dishes I have tried and found mediocre (three stars). There are many more that I have not tried, and may be quite good. I do know that the curry dishes are pretty good and seem to have improved from when the restaurant first opened. It is well worthwhile giving True Thai a try.
RATING: 19
Cuisine: Thai
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Assessible: Yes
Most Recent Visit
Nov. 10, 2007
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Tom Yum, Phad Prik King, Thai Iced Tea
Special Ratings
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Tom Yum |
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Phad Prik King |
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Phad King |
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Phad Thai |
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Thai Iced Tea |
Casa Jurado in Kern Place–El Paso, TX
History: For many years Casa Jurado was one of El Paso’s most popular restaurants, serving the classic “El Paso style” Mexican food. This was characterized by red and green chile enchiladas, a large variety of items (some of which seemed to be unique to the El Paso area), and the fact that it contained elements of New Mexican cuisine as well as authentic dishes from Mexico.
In the meantime, a second location opened on Doniphan Drive in El Paso’s Upper Valley, known as Casa Jurado West. This was operated by another Jurado family member, and had food which was much the same as at the original location.
Henry Jurado, the long time owner and manager of the original Casa Jurado, sold the restaurant in 2004. The new owners continued the same menu as before, but long time customers seemed to notice subtle changes to the food and began to come less frequently than before (they kept the same cooks and waiters that had been at the old Casa Jurado, but there was enough variability in the food that I wasn’t always sure it was still the “same old” Casa Jurado). The restaurant closed in 2010. I think changes in the food were not the only reason for this, or even the main reason. At the time the “Cincinnati District” was going through drastic changes, becoming more of a night club scene than the traditional shopping and restaurant district that had been there before. It became almost impossible to find a parking spot even if you wanted to go to Casa Jurado, and the restaurant just did not fit the neighborhood very well any more.
Casa Jurado West is still operating with the traditional Jurado family recipes. I never liked it quite as much as the original restaurant, but it is nevertheless one of the top “El Paso style” restaurants in the city.
The following review was written after the ownership of the original restaurant changed, and is a description of the “post-Henry” restaurant with allusions to the original.
Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa Jurado itself is decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati Avenue.
Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in 2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained.
For a while the food did not seem to be the same as when the Jurado family still had the restaurant. However, through keeping the same cooks and waiters the restaurant has maintained a continuity so that as of 2007 it seems to be the same “Casa J” as before.
Chips and salsa at Casa Jurado
In theory, the food should be even better now than before. The Salsa is the only item that has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor. I think it is still pretty heavy on the comino but I thought it was good. If you wish to take a taste test you can try the one at Casa Jurado West which still serves the original salsa.
A conscious effort has been made by the owner of the Casa Jurado in Kern Place to keep things fresh by making the food daily and not keeping anything overnight. One time I went they had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that day, and the sauce is only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next morning. This also means that if you go in the evening not everything on the menu might be available.
Enchiladas Norteñas
Enchiladas Norteñas was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and currently at the Doniphan (Casa Jurado West) location. This is characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in the city. Based on my recent experiences at the restaurant I suspect they are now back to the original style, but without ordering this specific dish I cannot make a rating of it. It does seem, though, that the restaurant tried to change at first, then went back to the original way of doing things that made Casa Jurado a success in the first place.
Chicken flautas
My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a “perfect” order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are normally found. The only component of the flautas that I thought was less than perfect was the chicken that had a flavor I frequently encounter in Mexican food, but that I nevertheless do not like very much (kind of a dry taste). Still it was good, and next time I will probably get beef flautas. Even if you order chicken, I still highly recommend this dish.
At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same.
Chicken Mole used to be very good. It is a matter of taste on this dish, but currently I like the version at Carnitas Queretaro the best.
Salpicón has always been the restaurant’s specialty–a type of beef salad that is served cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the lab salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants.
One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me (and who still works at the restaurant) suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but I think it would be so worth it.
Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes.
Refried Beans are better than before. It could be that they have now started using vegetable oil, but I really do not know the reason they seem to be so good.
One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso.
The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer. I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a comlimentary serving of something called “queso,” but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a key ingredient.
I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are some of the best in the city. The ones at the “old” restaurant were good, but I do not remember them being this good.
The Flan over the years has been one of the best I’ve eaten.
I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. If some of my previous disappointments have now been rectified, the restaurant can now be considered better than before. I think it is at least close to the type of food Henry brought us for a number of years.
*** Also see Three Versions of Enchiladas–New Mexico, El Paso, and Mexico Style
RATING: 25 (Pre-2004)
Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Full Bar
| Chile Index: | |
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 27, 2007
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos, Chicken Mole, Flautas, Enchiladas Norteñas (at the original restaurant)
Special Ratings
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Enchiladas Norteñas (this is the pre-2004 rating) |
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Chiles Rellenos |
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Chicken Mole |
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Flautas |
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Refried Beans |
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Salsa |
LM Restaurant is one of several Asian and other ethnic restaurants along the eastern end of old U.S. Highway 66 in Amarillo, a couple of miles north of Interstate 40. While many tourists flock to the Big Texan Steak House on the Interstate, few seem to be aware of the decidedly “untourist” Southeast Asian restaurants that serve the community of immigrants and refugees from Laos, Vietnam, and surrounding countries as well as a growing number of the “non-ethnic” local residents who seek out cheap and interesting cuisine.
LM Restaurant is attached to the LM Market that sells mostly Thai imported goods, and this in itself is worth exploring. I particularly liked the selection of Thai fruit drinks at a very reasonable price. Next to the dining room is a large hall that houses large parties and live Lao music, as well as serving as the smoking area of the restaurant when not being used as an entertainment hall.
Lab salad with chicken
On my original visit to the restaurant I asked for a recommendation for a typical Laotian dish. I was told that the Lao people like beef jerky, but I settled on Lab (pronouned laap), a Lao-style salad with small chunks of chicken, chiles, other ingredients that I did not recognize, with slices of cucumber and Thai eggplant on the side. This turned out to be one of the most delicious Laotian food items out of the several things I have ordered at various Amarillo restaurants. The mint and cucumber provided a cool contrast to the spicy chicken. Another interesting aspect was the temperature. It tasted as if the dish was both hot and cold– probably because of the cooked chicken and the cold vegetables. Lab comes with either beef or chicken. When I visited LM Restaurant the second time the waitress said the chicken version was her favorite, so I ordered the same thing as on my first visit. I do not know if the beef or chicken is considered a more traditional version of the dish, but I thought the chicken was quite good. It should also be pointed out that the traditional version of Lab is quite spicy. I would put the spice level at about 7 or 8 out of 10, with 10 being the spiciest dishes I find in American restaurants.
Chicken soup, sticky rice, cucumber, and Asian eggplant for lab salad
On my first visit in 2004 a large bowl of Chicken Soup was served with the lab for a total cost of $5, and also providing a mild contrast to the spicy salad. I do not know what happened, but on a return visit the soup was both more expensive and not as flavorful as it had been originally. This does point out, though, that several types of soup are available. The lady who currently cooks at LM Restaurant seems to follow the Asian tradition of adding her own touches to the recipes and perhaps changing some of the food daily for variety. While I did not care as much for the soup the second time, I thought the lab salad was better than on my first visit.
LM Restaurant has a fairly extensive menu, and also seems to have some Chinese and Thai dishes. I would judge the number of traditional Lao dishes to be about a dozen or so, although the distinction between Lao and Isan, or northern Thai food, is sometimes quite small. The menu does not really explain all of this, nor does it provide much description of the various items. The waitress suggested, though, that the most popular Lao items served were the lab salad, beef jerky, and seafood soup.
Also not explained on the menu is the fact that a basket of Sticky Rice (shown in photo on left) is a traditional supplement to a Lao meal, and is a good fire quencher to offset the hot spices used in the food. I also happen to think sticky rice is delicious, with the version served at LM Restaurant being probably the best I have tried in Amarillo.
LM does not make its own Thai tea, but serves ones from the market next door. The jasmine tea I ordered, though, went pretty well with the food.
I have eaten at two Lao restaurants in Amarillo that are now closed, but currently the only ones that specialize in Lao food are LM Restaurant and Ly’s Restaurant a short distance to the west where Houang’s used to be (Thai House also serves some Lao dishes). Ly’s provides pictures of all the dishes, which to me seems like a great advantage to first time diners of Lao cuisine (one which I did not have on my fist several visits to the various restaurants). While LM Restaurant lacks pictures, the waitress takes all the time necessary to explain the food and find out what the customer would like to order. I certainly feel that customers at LM will be given all the help they need to explore the world of Lao and northern Thai cuisine.
RATING: 22
Cuisine: Lao
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Tues.
Accessible: Yes
Tea: Jasmine (bags)/ Thai tea
MSG: No
Smoking: Non-Smoking Area
Buffet: No
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 3, 2007
Number of Visits: 2
Best Item
Lab Salad
Special Ratings
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Lab |
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Chicken Soup |
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Sticky Rice |