Casa Jurado–El Paso, TX

Casa Jurado (Closed)
226 Cincinnati Ave.
El Paso, TXDate of Review: Feb. 2007 (updated Mar. 2016)

Casa Jurado

Casa Jurado in Kern Place–El Paso, TX


History:  For many years Casa Jurado was one of El Paso’s most popular restaurants, serving the classic “El Paso style” Mexican food.  This was characterized by red and green chile enchiladas, a large variety of items (some of which seemed to be unique to the El Paso area), and the fact that it contained elements of New Mexican cuisine as well as authentic dishes from Mexico.

In the meantime, a second location opened on Doniphan Drive in El Paso’s Upper Valley, known as Casa Jurado West.  This was operated by another Jurado family member, and had food which was much the same as at the original location.

Henry Jurado, the long time owner and manager of the original Casa Jurado, sold the restaurant in 2004.  The new owners continued the same menu as before, but long time customers seemed to notice subtle changes to the food and began to come less frequently than before (they kept the same cooks and waiters that had been at the old Casa Jurado, but there was enough variability in the food that I wasn’t always sure it was still the “same old” Casa Jurado).  The restaurant closed in 2010.  I think changes in the food were not the only reason for this, or even the main reason.  At the time the “Cincinnati District” was going through drastic changes, becoming more of a night club scene than the traditional shopping and restaurant district that had been there before.  It became almost impossible to find a parking spot even if you wanted to go to Casa Jurado, and the restaurant just did not fit the neighborhood very well any more.

Casa Jurado West is still operating with the traditional Jurado family recipes.  I never liked it quite as much as the original restaurant, but it is nevertheless one of the top “El Paso style” restaurants in the city.

The following review was written after the ownership of the original restaurant changed, and is a description of the “post-Henry” restaurant with allusions to the original.


Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa Jurado itself is decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati Avenue.

Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in 2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained.

For a while the food did not seem to be the same as when the Jurado family still had the restaurant. However, through keeping the same cooks and waiters the restaurant has maintained a continuity so that as of 2007 it seems to be the same “Casa J” as before.

Chips and salsa

Chips and salsa at Casa Jurado

In theory, the food should be even better now than before. The Salsa is the only item that has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor. I think it is still pretty heavy on the comino but I thought it was good. If you wish to take a taste test you can try the one at Casa Jurado West which still serves the original salsa.

A conscious effort has been made by the owner of the Casa Jurado in Kern Place to keep things fresh by making the food daily and not keeping anything overnight. One time I went they had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that day, and the sauce is only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next morning. This also means that if you go in the evening not everything on the menu might be available.

Enchiladas Norteñas

Enchiladas Norteñas

Enchiladas Norteñas was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and currently at the Doniphan (Casa Jurado West) location. This is characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in the city. Based on my recent experiences at the restaurant I suspect they are now back to the original style, but without ordering this specific dish I cannot make a rating of it. It does seem, though, that the restaurant tried to change at first, then went back to the original way of doing things that made Casa Jurado a success in the first place.

Chicken flautas

Chicken flautas

My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a “perfect” order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are normally found. The only component of the flautas that I thought was less than perfect was the chicken that had a flavor I frequently encounter in Mexican food, but that I nevertheless do not like very much (kind of a dry taste). Still it was good, and next time I will probably get beef flautas. Even if you order chicken, I still highly recommend this dish.

At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same.

Chicken Mole used to be very good. It is a matter of taste on this dish, but currently I like the version at Carnitas Queretaro the best.

Salpicón has always been the restaurant’s specialty–a type of beef salad that is served cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the lab salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants.

One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me (and who still works at the restaurant) suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but I think it would be so worth it.

Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes.

Refried Beans are better than before. It could be that they have now started using vegetable oil, but I really do not know the reason they seem to be so good.

One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso.

The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer. I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a comlimentary serving of something called “queso,” but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a key ingredient.

I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are some of the best in the city. The ones at the “old” restaurant were good, but I do not remember them being this good.

The Flan over the years has been one of the best I’ve eaten.

I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. If some of my previous disappointments have now been rectified, the restaurant can now be considered better than before. I think it is at least close to the type of food Henry brought us for a number of years.

*** Also see Three Versions of Enchiladas–New Mexico, El Paso, and Mexico Style

RATING: 25 (Pre-2004)

Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Full Bar

Chile Index: chile 4

Most Recent Visit
Feb. 27, 2007

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos, Chicken Mole, Flautas, Enchiladas Norteñas (at the original restaurant)

Special Ratings

star 5 Enchiladas Norteñas (this is the pre-2004 rating)
star 5 Chiles Rellenos
star 5 Chicken Mole
star 5 Flautas
star 5 Refried Beans
star 5 Salsa

LM Restaurant–Amarillo, TX

LM Restaurant (Closed)
5813 E. Amarillo Blvd.
Amarillo, TX
Date of Review:
Feb. 2007

LM Restaurant is one of several Asian and other ethnic restaurants along the eastern end of old U.S. Highway 66 in Amarillo, a couple of miles north of Interstate 40. While many tourists flock to the Big Texan Steak House on the Interstate, few seem to be aware of the decidedly “untourist” Southeast Asian restaurants that serve the community of immigrants and refugees from Laos, Vietnam, and surrounding countries as well as a growing number of the “non-ethnic” local residents who seek out cheap and interesting cuisine.

LM Restaurant is attached to the LM Market that sells mostly Thai imported goods, and this in itself is worth exploring. I particularly liked the selection of Thai fruit drinks at a very reasonable price. Next to the dining room is a large hall that houses large parties and live Lao music, as well as serving as the smoking area of the restaurant when not being used as an entertainment hall.

Lab salad

Lab salad with chicken

On my original visit to the restaurant I asked for a recommendation for a typical Laotian dish. I was told that the Lao people like beef jerky, but I settled on Lab (pronouned laap), a Lao-style salad with small chunks of chicken, chiles, other ingredients that I did not recognize, with slices of cucumber and Thai eggplant on the side. This turned out to be one of the most delicious Laotian food items out of the several things I have ordered at various Amarillo restaurants. The mint and cucumber provided a cool contrast to the spicy chicken. Another interesting aspect was the temperature. It tasted as if the dish was both hot and cold– probably because of the cooked chicken and the cold vegetables. Lab comes with either beef or chicken. When I visited LM Restaurant the second time the waitress said the chicken version was her favorite, so I ordered the same thing as on my first visit. I do not know if the beef or chicken is considered a more traditional version of the dish, but I thought the chicken was quite good. It should also be pointed out that the traditional version of Lab is quite spicy. I would put the spice level at about 7 or 8 out of 10, with 10 being the spiciest dishes I find in American restaurants.

Lao style chicken soup

Chicken soup, sticky rice, cucumber, and Asian eggplant for lab salad

On my first visit in 2004 a large bowl of Chicken Soup was served with the lab for a total cost of $5, and also providing a mild contrast to the spicy salad. I do not know what happened, but on a return visit the soup was both more expensive and not as flavorful as it had been originally. This does point out, though, that several types of soup are available. The lady who currently cooks at LM Restaurant seems to follow the Asian tradition of adding her own touches to the recipes and perhaps changing some of the food daily for variety. While I did not care as much for the soup the second time, I thought the lab salad was better than on my first visit.

LM Restaurant has a fairly extensive menu, and also seems to have some Chinese and Thai dishes. I would judge the number of traditional Lao dishes to be about a dozen or so, although the distinction between Lao and Isan, or northern Thai food, is sometimes quite small. The menu does not really explain all of this, nor does it provide much description of the various items. The waitress suggested, though, that the most popular Lao items served were the lab salad, beef jerky, and seafood soup.

Also not explained on the menu is the fact that a basket of Sticky Rice (shown in photo on left) is a traditional supplement to a Lao meal, and is a good fire quencher to offset the hot spices used in the food. I also happen to think sticky rice is delicious, with the version served at LM Restaurant being probably the best I have tried in Amarillo.

LM does not make its own Thai tea, but serves ones from the market next door. The jasmine tea I ordered, though, went pretty well with the food.

I have eaten at two Lao restaurants in Amarillo that are now closed, but currently the only ones that specialize in Lao food are LM Restaurant and Ly’s Restaurant a short distance to the west where Houang’s used to be (Thai House also serves some Lao dishes). Ly’s provides pictures of all the dishes, which to me seems like a great advantage to first time diners of Lao cuisine (one which I did not have on my fist several visits to the various restaurants). While LM Restaurant lacks pictures, the waitress takes all the time necessary to explain the food and find out what the customer would like to order. I certainly feel that customers at LM will be given all the help they need to explore the world of Lao and northern Thai cuisine.

RATING: 22

Cuisine: Lao
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Tues.
Accessible: Yes
Tea: Jasmine (bags)/ Thai tea
MSG: No
Smoking: Non-Smoking Area
Buffet: No

Most Recent Visit
Feb. 3, 2007

Number of Visits: 2

Best Item
Lab Salad

Special Ratings

star 5 Lab
star 5 Chicken Soup
star 5 Sticky Rice