5 thoughts on “El Paso Mexican Restaurants 1980”

1. Sierra’s Cafe was wonderful. We ate there more than any other place even though we had to drive to get there. It served only three entrees with no sides, save for the francesito that came with the menudo. Tacos, menudo, and enchiladas. That was it. Dirt cheap, too.

   There were probably only four tables in the restaurant. If you wanted a beverage with your meal, you were directed to a soda machine that dispensed cold drinks in bottles.

   The two viejitas, the only help in the restaurant—they both cooked and waited on tables—proudly displayed a large, framed pic of the son of one of them. He was a toddler in the pic, looking adorable in his shorts and suspenders. According to my grandmother, the restaurant’s income paid the way for the boy to eventually go to college and then law school. The viejitas proudly displayed his college books in a glass-enclosed bookcase.

   The walls were painted a light green which complemented the many houseplants.

   On Sundays, a line of people, mostly African American, would be in the restaurant with ollas in hand to take menudo home. Mejicanos would sit at the tables.

   The tacos were to die for. They had this fabulous beef and potato filling in a tortilla fried till crispy. Three golden half-circles, looking festive with shredded lettuce, were brought hot on a plate. I think these were served with a salsa of chile pequin on the side … but I’m not sure.

   The menudo became the standard by which I judge all menudo. The bowl came to the table with no fat on the surface of the broth. Sometimes the broth of other people’s menudo can be murky, but Sierra’s version had an appealing clear red broth. There was a generous helping of meat and hominy in a serving. The tripe pieces were cooked tender, never chewy or rubbery.

   The enchiladas? Meh. Two out of three excellent foods was reason enough to look forward to the restaurant. One of my earliest memories is of myself at three running down the sidewalk on North El Paso Street to my grandfather’s father open arms and becoming excited when he announced that we were going to Sierra’s.

   Life’s simple pleasures and good memories. That was Sierra’s Cafe.

   Reply ↓

   • I really enjoyed your story about one of El Paso’s “gone but not forgotten” restaurants. It is typical of the many mom and pop places that are a large part of the city’s history. When you say that the menudo became the standard by which you judge all menudo, it seems that most of these small restaurants have at least one dish which customers consider to be the standard.

     I’m sorry that I did not get to try more of these places while they were still open, but of course some of them are still in operation. The ones that stay in business for a number of years generally either have very good food overall, or they have the special dishes that everybody likes. I tend to think, though, that it is mostly the latter.

     Reply ↓

2. Great list–frequented most of them over the 60 years of enjoying living in EP, but the one especially searched info on was the Panchos on Alameda or Paisano–appreciated your comments, as it was our favorite for real Mexican food, too (maybe the late 1950’s -1960’s?)!

   Reply ↓

3. Thank you for your blog.
   Montezuma was my Dad’s Uncle, Kiko’s restaurant. I remember eating there in the 80’s.
   It was a large space with a cashier counter which had different flavors of gum for sale.
   I also remember high ceilings and an alley on the side… We heard eventually there was a devastating fire that took down the restaurant and Kiko was now too old to rebuild.
   Again, thank you for this post and spending the time to write about your experiences.

   Reply ↓

   • I remember the restaurant but I have forgotten many of the details. Was it on the alley behind Kansas Street? If so I think many people in my office went there for burritos and other items for takeout or a quick lunch. Do you have any mementos, pictures, menus, etc. that would give more information about the restaurant? I’m just curious.

     Reply ↓