Elemi had been getting quite a bit of publicity from locals who were impressed by the fact that the food here was Mexican, but was very different and very good. It seemed to have dishes that represented various regions of Mexico, but done in a modernized style using locally sourced ingredients. To me this looked like a must try restaurant yet I never did because of the fact that it did not open until 3 pm (now the opening time is 5:00 on most days). Its location in downtown El Paso was such that I walked by it several times while visiting other nearby restaurants but never made it to the one that was getting so much buzz from people who had dined there.

Elemi at its previous location in downtown El Paso

The catalyst for my first visit, though, was when my fellow blogger and friend Gil Garduno came to the Sun City on one of his infrequent but very appreciated visits (I got the impression that he and his buddies came quite frequently during his Air Force days when crossing the border to Ciudad Juarez was a much simpler and less stressful task than today). These days, though, restaurants such as Elemi seem to offer a more exciting and satisfying food experience than would likely be found in much of Mexico–particularly the border area where the food is much like the fare served at hundreds of El Paso’s restaurants, diners, and taquerias. Elemi has the kind of food I might expect to find in Mexico City but probably in few places anywhere else.

A passing streetcar momentarily blocks the view of Elemi

I would refer you to the review of Elemi on Gil’s web site for a thorough and impeccably researched narrative of our meal and the food served at Elermi. Luckily for me we shared all the items ordered, allowing both of us to give our take on a number of different items. Food here is served tapas style so the number of dishes we tried is not overkill or reminiscent of the days my relatives and I went to Pancho’s and other buffets to hold an eating contest to see who could consume the greatest quantity of food. At the same time, though, Elemi’s offerings are substantive enough that just one or two items might be enough for many people. One of our items was a dessert, so I would say others are likely to want at least three things from the menu.

Elemi moved to El Paso’s east side just outside of Horizon City after our visit and I think they now have a larger dining room. It might still be a good idea, though, to get reservations.

Botanas

Pepinos

Following Elemi’s menu, one would start with the botanas, a Spanish word meaning appetizers, bites, tapas, small plates, nibbles, finger foods, or munchies according to the definition generated by a Google search. In fact, the first item brought to us by Elemi was Pepinos, an appetizer made out of a cucumber sliced so thinly it looks like multiple bits of the vegetable. It is actually one long sliced cucumber seasoned with lime, chile de arbol, sesame seeds, and “sal de hormigas chicatanas,” or ants that are considered a delicacy in Mexico. Perhaps I have a subliminal aversion to the idea of feasting on ants, but this was my least favorite item, and made me wary of my choice to dine at one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. With the ants being reduced to a salt, though, at least the texture was something that could conceivably be considered a normal dish with a good flavor. The dish was surprising good considering its ingredients, but is a good example of why I rarely stray out of the realm of down home style Mexican food and into the world of the more educated, informed, and snobbish food crowd. In contrast, though, I think every other item reviewed here would appeal to any of these groups of people.

Esquites

The second Botana was Esquites, a dish of white corn, lime, aioli, butter, queso contija, and chile pequin. As Gil explains, this is a Mexican street food that Elemi elevates by serving the corn from Mexican farms known for having the highest quality corn. It is certainly something I have not found in other restaurants in El Paso. I do think he has a good point brcause there is a big difference between traditional corn and the GMO variety sold in most stores these days.

Quesabirria

Quesabirria has been a very trendy item in El Paso recently, but there have not been any others that I liked as much as the one at Elemi. It was also my favorite item at Elemi out of several that I really liked. Gil points out that this is not a traditional birria dish and does not come with a consomme. I think Gil is in agreement with me though that the way Elemi experiments with the traditional Mexican recipes results in very exciting taste experiences.

Tacos

Conejito pibil

Conejito Pibil was one of the items celebrated by the James Beard Foundation when they nominated Elemi for an award in 2023. For them it was a special treat. For me it did not stand out from the other dishes, but the whole meal was a special treat. I was just glad that the rabbit did not taste like I thought it would based on the possibly imaginary experiences I had eating rabbit when I was a kid (but real enough that I have been avoiding rabbit my whole life). Elemi has enough menu choices that I can try something else next time, but the rabbit is not a bad choice.

Taco campechano

The Taco Campechano is considered to be a main dish but is listed under the “Tacos” section of the menu. This is made with “flank steak and pork chicharrón crumbled or chopped into small pieces” (according to Patti Jinich’s description of the dish on her web site). As far as I know this is not served elsewhere in El Paso, but the one here meets my expectations for both elevated cooking and down home Mexican food.

Desserts

Tamal del momento

Dessert was Tamal del Momento, and was a special for the day, so I’m not sure what I got. Billed as a “chocolate tamale,” I thought it was one of the highlights of the meal. Gil thought if we had ordered their standard dessert, the arroz con leche, it would have been even better. I do not doubt his greater experience than mine with upscale Mexican food, but at times you just have to try something different.

Closing Comments
For those of you who have read Gil’s review and appreciate his knowledge and in depth explanation of the food, please make comments to his blog and ask him to come to El Paso more often. Actually there are a plethora of food writers who could find good fodder for their writing and have yet to put the Borderland on their radar screen. Oh well, it just makes it easier for writers such as Gil and I to get good reservations.

Elemi Web Site

RATING: 26

Mexican Food Details

Chile Index:
Cooking Oil:	N/A

 

Special Ratings

	Quesabirria
	Taco Campechano
	Taco Conejito Pibil
	Esquites
	Pepinos
	Chocolate Tamal